Ecuador
(February 2010)
Host: BirdEcuador (www.cabanasanisidro.com)Leaders: Forrest D. Rowland, Bruce Di Labio
Participants: Bonnie H., Don J.
As the years go by and more people come to know just how wonderful the birds, birding, food, and lodging in Ecuador is, I find myself more frequently in the company of wonderfully fun and enthusiastic people. Bruce DiLabio organized this exploratory trip for his company’s inaugural foray into the birding ecotourism of Ecuador. It was my pleasure to act as local guide for the duration of the trip, visiting the standard, and a few not-so-standard, birding sites in the Northern Andes.
The area covered by this tour is vast in terms of habitat variety accessed, but a relatively small distance spans between the Easternmost terminus of the route (km 32 on the Loreto Road), and the most Western (Rio Silanche Preserve). The route lies roughly on the equator itself, never being more than about 50 miles North or South of the line.
The Andes in Northern Ecuador are divided by an arid, central valley, into two distinct ranges running North to South. The avifauna of each range share species and habitat types, but also exhibit a large degree of difference. This is especially obvious when regarding what is known as the Choco region in the far Northwest of the country, which is an area of international conservation concern full of regional endemics. Also of concern, the foothill habitat along the Eastern slope of the Andes holds the most biodiversity in terms of bird species per hectare. Two overwhelmingly beautiful and exciting areas that we focused on!
Not to be neglected, the temperate forest and paramo of both slopes received three full days of birding. We had incredible weather and some astonishing luck with species at these elevations! Again, breathtaking scenery and truly unique experiences welcomed us in the thin air.
Below, I have written a succinct Itinerary for those who wish to scroll directly to the Bird List, at the end of this account. A daily account of our activities listing some bird species representative of the area visited that day may be more helpful to those planning a future visit to Ecuador, or simply provide (hopefully) a more entertaining read!
For more information regarding tours with DiLabio Birding, visit www.dilabiobirding.ca. For trips solely within the country of Ecuador, and visiting Guango Lodge and San Isidro Lodge, go to www.cabanasanisidro.com. For any questions pertaining specifically to this trip report, the birds, or the route, feel free to e-mail me at rowbird2005@gmail.com.
Itinerary
Day 0: Participants in Quito. Overnight Sheraton.
Day 1 (2/8): Antisana Preserve, Papallacta Pass. Overnight Guango Lodge.
Day 2 (2/9): Papallacta Pass and Guango trails. Overnight Cabanas San Isidro.
Day 3 (2/10): San Isidro grounds, trails, and road. Overnight CSI.
Day 4 (2/11): Loreto Road, San Isidro grounds. Overnight CSI
Day 5 (2/12): Guacamayos Ridge. Overnight Quito.
Day 6 (2/13): Yanacocha, Nono-Mindo Road. Overnight Septimo Paraiso.
Day 7 (2/14): Reserva Paz de Las Aves, Mashpi. Overnight Septimo Paraiso.
Day 8 (2/15): Rio Silanche. Milpe. Overnight Septimo Paraiso.
Day 9 (2/16): Rio Silanche. Milpe. Overnight Septimo Paraiso.
Day 10 (2/17): Tandayapa Valley and environs. Overnight Quito.
Day 11 (2/18): Flights out.
Trip Log
Day 1 - Our first day afield was a visit to one of the most pristine, impressive, high-altitude grasslands in the country: Antisana (4093 masl). The name comes from the nearby Volcano, of the same name, that looms over the grassy hillsides and lakes of the preserve. Originally established to protect Micacocha and a few other lakes supplying water to Quito, this private ranch and preserve is one of the last strongholds for several rare paramo species. Birds seen regularly here include Andean Condor, Paramo Pipit, Giant Hummingbird, Ecuadorian Hillstar, Carunculated Caracara, Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle, Andean Lapwing, several species of waterfowl, and the prized Black-faced Ibis, among others.
Recently lumped with another taxon (T. melanopsis branickii), Black-faced Ibis regularly occurs only at Antisana, with small, nomadic, populations present elsewhere in the country. Being recorded on about half the visits to this site, and usually in numbers less than a dozen, we were shocked to encounter an estimated 26 individuals!!! At times, small flocks of these fascinating birds were probing the ground no more than 50 yards from us.
Dinner and late evening was spent at Guango Lodge. Made entirely of Rock and local timber, this interesting structure is unique, offers a fireplace to get warm, spectacular hummingbird watching, and food on par with that of Cabanas San Isidro (some of the best in country). Overnight Guango.
Day 2 – Papallacta Pass is the highest site of the tour. The antennae array, famous for being home to the elusive Rufous-bellied Seedsnipe, sits nearly 4300 meters above sea level! Though higher in elevation, Papallacta Pass is more wet, and lush, than Antisana. While species overlap is nearly complete between the two sites, birds easy at Papallacta are all but absent from Antisana. We encountered nearly all of these special birds, including Blue-mantled Thornbill, Andean Tit-Spinetail, White-chinned Thistletail, Tawny Antpitta, Red-rumped Bush-Tyrant, and Paramo Seedeater!
We spent the latter part of the morning birding at a slightly lower elevation site, at treeline. The stunted trees, tall grass and forbes, and Polylepis groves, provide for a more varied avifauna, and a good introduction to the forest birding that is to come. Birds seen here included: Tufted and Agile Tit-Tyrant, Crimson-mantled Woodpecker, Cinereous and Blue-backed Conebills, Black-chested, Buff-breasted, and Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanagers, Golden-crowned Tanager, Black-backed and Gray-hooded Bush-Tanagers, Viridian Metaltail, Glowing Puffleg, Pale-naped Brush-Finch, and more.
The afternoon was spent birding the area close to Guango Lodge, and traversing a wonderful new trail the preserve staff had recently cut. It was a very successful afternoon, as we encountered the flocks hoped for! Species included Turquoise Jay, Mountain Cacique, Hooded Mountain-Tanager, Blue-black Tanager, a flock of White-capped/Speckle-faced Parrots, Powerful Woodpecker, Black-capped Tyrannulet, Rufous and Mountain Wrens, Rufous-breasted Chat-Tyrant, even a family group of Plushcap browsed right up to the trail! One of the best birds of the day popped out of the river some 100 yards upstream from the bridge we stood on: a gorgeous pair of Torrent Ducks.
The 2 hour (approximately…varies WIDELY depending on construction and traffic, landslides, bridges out, etc.) drive to San Isidro from Guango offers wonderful views of 150m high waterfalls, raging torrents, and provides a scenic break from intense birding to enjoy the Andean countryside. We birded little along the way, wanting to get settled in at CSI and eat. Overnight Cabanas San Isidro.
Day 3 – Spending one full day around San Isidro (2225masl) nets a lot of great species, close looks, and wonderful feeder watching. Unfortunately, it also serves as a reminder that one could spend several days here enjoying the walks, scenery, hummingbird show, and the food. The food has become as legendary as the birds!
After enjoying the dawn feeding frenzy around the lampposts, and Antpitta feeding, we hit the road to search for fruit-following species, a few skulkers, and flocks. A little time was spent on the trails later in the day, for some understory species. Another 100+ species day!
Some of the goodies enjoyed today included Red-billed Parrot, Rufous-bellied Nighthawk, San Isidro Owl, Tawny-bellied Hermit, Crested Quetzal, Masked Trogon, Yellow-vented Woodpecker, Streak-capped Treehunter, Tyrannine Woodcreeper, Strong-billed Woodcreeper, Chestnut-crowned Antpitta, White-bellied Antpitta, Blackish Tapaculo, Long-tailed Tapaculo, Sulphur-bellied Tyrannulet, Andean Cock-of-the-Rock, Golden-collared Honeycreeper, Capped Conebill, some 10 species of Tanagers, and both Oleanginous and Black-eared Hemispingi among the huge day total.
Overnight CSI.
Day 4 – No trip to the East Slope of Andes is complete without visiting the lower subtropic/upper foothill zone (1150masl), accessed via the Loreto Road. This elevation and region are the most exploited by agriculture and development for the small, independent, farmer as well as recent larger corporation activities. I relish every chance to get to bird the area, though each trip I can’t help but notice the remarkable changes underway along the road. Loreto Road was recently paved for quicker thru-traffic to Coca and the Amazonian Lowlands in 2009. The paving of a rural road in South America feels something akin to a death in the family for a naturalist familiar with the area. “Progress” inevitably follows…Nevertheless, we were wildly successful, had a great time, and came back impressed at the number and variety of birds still seen here!
Highlights on the Loreto Road were Slaty-backed Forest-Falcon (first for me for the area!), Scaled Pigeon, Military Macaw, White-chested Swift, Wire-crested Thorntail, White-tailed Hillstar, Coppery-chested Jacamar, Golden-collared Toucanet, Crimson-crested Woodpecker, Lined Antshrike, Plain-winged Antwren, Blackish Antbird, Ecuadorian Tyrannulet, Large-headed Flatbill, Cliff Flycatcher, Lemon-browed Flycatcher, Deep-blue Flowerpiercer, Blue-naped Chlorophonia, Bronze-green Euphonia, 17 species of Tanager(!!!), and Olivaceous Siskin.
A quick stop on the way back to CSI to bird some flocks netted us great birds. Nice views of Montane Foliage-Gleaner, Handsome Flycatcher, Variegated Bristle-Tyrant, and Rufous-crested Tanager were had by all.
Overnight CSI.
Day 5 – Today we headed back over the Cosanga bridge to bird the Guacamayos Ridge trail, and the road. The trail, set up for the maintenance of one of Ecuador’s major underground oil pipelines, begins at a scenic overlook some 2700m above sea level atop the Guacamayos (Macaw) ridge. This is the Easternmost high ridge of the Andes in Northern Ecuador, and the slopes plunge down towards the Amazon Basin on an astonishingly steep grade. The surrounding rivers and valleys have created a unique habitat along the upper ridge here, allowing subtropical and temperate species to mix, overlap, and forage up and down the ridge in huge flocks. The birding here, though always good, can be hit or miss. For us, it was a HIT!
The first bird we saw as we exited the van was the scarce White-rumped Hawk, soaring out over the ridge. A very auspicious start! Green-fronted Lancebill and Greenish Puffleg both made appearances at nearby flowering vines, as we worked our way along the ridge. Within 40 minutes, we had our first big flock of the morning! Handsome Flycatcher, Rufous-breasted Flycatcher, Green-and-Black-Fruiteater, Barred Becard, Rusty-winged Barbtail, Black-billed Peppershrike, and several species of Tanager. I quickly noticed that, while a great flock, this was not the ridge-running flock I was Looking for. I made a quick decision to turn us around and head back towards the pass. 20 minutes later we were in the midst of a family group of 4 Black-billed Mountain-Toucans, the prize of the site! We had the birds foraging no more than 10 meters from us. An amazing experience in itself, we were distracted by the gorgeous Grass-green Tanagers, Hooded and Lacrimose Mountain-Tanagers, Rufous-headed Pygmy-Tyrant, Black-capped Hemispingus, and more Plushcaps in this famous flock!
After regrouping and regaining our wits in the van, we decided to head down the main road, to where the ridge descends towards Volcan Sumaco. This stretch of road (1500masl) can be great for two birds in particular. Though neither of these two rare tanagers made an appearance, I whistled in a male Golden-headed Quetzal. What a consolation! We filled our eyes with this wonderful, cooperative beauty and, with sighs of gratitude, walked back to the van leaving the Quetzal to his perch.
From there, we double-timed it back to Quito for a laundry stop and a free evening. Overnight Sheraton, Quito.
Day 6 – This morning was devoted to birding the temperate and treeline forest at the Yanacocha Preserve. This is one of 13 preserves managed and operated by the Jocotoco Foundation, respected as the most ambitious and accomplished bird conservation entity in the country. The main species of concern at Yanacocha is the Black-breasted Puffleg, a hummingbird known from the Western flank of only 3 volcanoes in the world, and endemic to Ecuador. Very few visiting birders ever see the Puffleg due to an altitudinal migration the species undergoes each Winter/Spring, taking it away from the preserve when most birders visit. Many other species abound here, though, and we were once again very successful in getting great looks at many of the target birds. These included: Andean Guan, Andean Pygmy-Owl, Shining Sunbeam, Great Sapphirewing, Sword-billed Hummingbird, Golden-breasted Puffleg, Rainbow-bearded Thornbill, White-browed Spinetail, Rufous Antpitta, Blackish Tapaculo (Scytalopus latrans unicolor), Paramo Tapaculo, White-throated and White-banded Tyrannulets, Black-throated Tody-Tyrant, Crowned Chat-Tyrant, Smoky Bush-Tyrant, Red-crested Cotinga, Barred Fruiteater, Superciliaried Hemispingus, and others.
That afternoon we spent birding along the Nono-Mindo road, down to the Highway. Though a bit degraded in areas, good patches of upper subtropical forest exist along the majority of the road, with a few stretches of middle subtropical forest, as well. Elevation ranged from 2600masl down to about 1800masl, before we met the highway and headed to Septimo Paraiso for some pampering. Flock birding was fantastic, the biggest of three groups encountered while parked on the bridge at Tandayapa village. Highlights included White-capped Dipper (great fun to watch!), Slaty-backed Chat-Tyrant, Plumbeous Pigeon, Streaked Tuftedcheek, Metallic-green Tanager, White-winged Tanager, and White-winged Brush-Finch.
Septimo Paraiso is a destination for tourists, in and of itself. With a pool, hot tub, game room, several private cabins, and communal dining hall, this getaway makes a perfect home base for several days of…well…anything you could hope to do in the area. We didn’t have the place to ourselves by any means, but given the several acres worth of grounds, and the staff providing us with the cabin complex farthest from the main area, we felt very comfy and private, indeed.
To anyone visiting the area, birding along the trails at this lodge can be great. The hummingbird show is one of the best, with species representative of all the Choco subtropical microclimes coming to feed. Hundreds of hummers! Very cool, zen activity to sit and watch them.
Day 7 – I saw a highlighted link to Reserva Paz de las Aves, just the other day. It was posted on the internet next to a picture of a Black-chinned Mountain-Tanager eating a banana. Nothing new about that, right? In this particular photo, Angel Paz was HOLDING the banana.
A pioneer in his own right, Angel Paz was once a simple farmer, using his land the way most people from the region use theirs – to grow Tomate de Arbol (tree tomato), Mora (Raspberry/Boysenberry), Grenadinas (Passionfruit), and chickens. In fact, as you walk down from the parking area to the first set of hummingbird feeders, you pass every single one of these crops. He still is a farmer at heart. Angel now cultivates something new and different. He cultivates a personal relationship with the birds on his land.
Perhaps no other single activity gracing an itinerary excites the foreign birder more than a visit to Angel Paz’s place. Today, we did just that. And, as it was the time before, and the time before that, spanning back some 6 years I have been visiting his preserve…this time was even better than the last. Branching out from Antpittas and Wood-Quail, which Angel and Rodrigo dig up worms to feed, the industrious brothers have set up a station where fruit-eating species find Grapes, Bananas, and other fruits set out on trays, retractable pulley-carts, and, most recently, Angel’s hand. To boot…How about dawn at an Andean Cock-of-the-Rock lek for an appetizer?
Birds seen on the Paz farm this morning included the following, among some 65 total: Barred Forest-Falcon (made a pass at birds at the feeders!), Dark-backed Wood-Quail, Sickle-winged Guan, Brown Violetear, Western Emerald, Velvet-purple Coronet, Empress Brilliant, Red-headed Barbet, Toucan Barbet, Crimson-rumped Toucanet, Plate-billed Mountain-Toucan, Smoky-brown Woodpecker, Spotted Barbtail, Uniform Treehunter, Uniform Antshrike, Giant Antpitta, Yellow-breasted Antpitta, Orange-breasted Fruiteater, Olivaceous Piha, Andean Cock-of-the-Rock, Golden-winged Manakin, Sharpe’s Wren, Black-chinned Mountain-Tanager, and Black-winged Saltator.
This afternoon we took a bit of a scouting trip to Mashpi. Just inside the borders of the Pichincha province, this is the best known locale for several very hard-to-find Choco species, much more readily found in Colombia. In the months to come after our visit, the Choco Vireo is discovered here, and Mashpi is recognized as the southernmost locale for this rare and endangered species.
Weather was uncooperative for our visit, limiting the birding time we could spend. We did have some fine looks at some very rare species, including Moss-backed Tanager, Indigo Flowerpiercer, Immaculate Antbird, the extremely rare and enigmatic Yellow-green Bush-Tanager, as well as great looks at Slaty Spinetail and Tricolored Brush-Finch.
Overnight Septimo Paraiso.
Days 8 and 9 – Septimo Paraiso is an ideal location to explore the lower elevation Western foothills, and we took full advantage! By birding Rio Silanche (850masl) in the early morning and Milpe (1120masl) late morning and early afternoon, we were able to avoid the scorching heat and humidity of the lower elevations by retreating to higher, milder climes. Birding in Milpe is good at any time of day, while heat can be a factor lower down.
Both preserves were phenomenal and nearly all target species, as well as a surprise or two, were seen! The canopy tower at Silanche is stellar, with nearby fruiting trees attracting flock after flock. Milpe in the afternoon is one big mixed flock, and, this time of the year, cloud cover keeps even the skulkers out later in the day.
The list of birds over the course of these two days added another 80+ species to the trip total. Outstanding species included Gray-headed Kite, Tiny Hawk, Rufous-fronted Wood-Quail, Bronze-winged Parrot, Stripe-throated Hermit, Green Thorntail, Violet-bellied Hummingbird, Blue-chested Hummingbird, Purple-chested Hummingbird, Ecuadorian Trogon, Snowy-tailed Trogon, Rufous Motmot, Rufous-tailed Jacamar, Orange-fronted Barbet, Choco Toucan, Cinnamon Woodpecker, Scarlet-backed Woodpecker, Guayaquil Woodpecker, Western Woodhaunter, Scaly-throated Leaftosser, Black-striped Woodcreeper, Western Slaty-Antshrike, Pacific Antwren, Checker-throated Antwren, Esmeraldas Antbird, Choco Tyrannulet, Black-capped Pygmy-Tyrant, Sulphur-rumped Flycatcher, Tawny-breasted Flycatcher, Black-tipped Cotinga, Club-winged Manakin, Tawny-faced Gnatwren, Yellow-collared Chlorophonia, Glistening-green Tanager, Gray-and-Gold Tanager, Blue-whiskered Tanager, Ochre-breasted Tanager, Dusky-faced Tanager, Tawny-crested Tanager, Scarlet-browed Tanager, Black-striped Sparrow, and Yellow-bellied Siskin.
Nights at Septimo Paraiso.
Day 10 – Our Last Day. We didn’t want to rush anything today, as we had been birding pretty continuously , save for a nice afternoon off the day before, complete with a quick swim, drinks, and the Winter Olympics. But…we did have a great schedule today, birding the Upper Tandayapa Road, Research Road, Bellavista Lodge, and paying a visit to the Nunnerys! So, we did our best to fill in a few gaps. White-throated Quail-Dove, great looks at Powerful Woodpecker, Gorgeted Sunangel, Spot-fronted Swift, Striped Treehunter, Spillmann’s Tapaculo (nearly jumped on my HEAD!), Yellow-bellied Chat-Tyrant, the extremely scarce and gorgeous Beautiful Jay, full views of singing Plain-tailed Wrens 6 meters away, Golden-rumped Euphonia, and Western Hemispingus all made the day go by too quickly.
All this, and a fine going away meal at the Sheraton, ended the trip on one of many high notes.
Conclusion
As most guides will tell you, birds are the easy part. The tricky bit is that you never really know what’s going to happen when strangers get in a car and bird their heads off for days on end. While I’ll admit that Bruce, Bonnie, and Don had been previously acquainted, I was new to them and they to me, as is often the case with guiding. We got along great, enjoyed our time in the field together, and I believe the success our trip was met with was a great reflection of that dynamic.
With a trip total of 499 species recorded in just ten days, there was little left to the imagination! But, there is always something to come back for….
2009
Cuba
(February 2009)
Click
here to see photos from the February 2009 tours to Cuba.2008
Cuba
(April
2008)
Click
here to see the Tour Report from our tour to Cuba in April 2008.Point Pelee National Park Tour Highlights
(2001
to 2008)
2001
Reviewing the bird list for the day. Photo courtesy of Lorraine Elworthy.
In 2001 weather played an important role in the north bound advancement of migrants. Both rain and fog hampered some of the days but we persevered and had many highlights including great views of both male Prothonotary and Hooded Warbler, White-eyed Vireo, Red-headed Woodpecker and Yellow-headed Blackbirds.
2002
(L to R) Bruce Di Labio, Patricia Lemay & Don Jones at Point Pelee National Park in 2008. Photo courtesy of Marilyn MacIvor.
2003
Blackburnian Warbler from a 2008 tour at Point Pelee. Photo courtesy of Marilyn MacIvor.
In 2003 both tours experienced Point Pelee at its best, with a steady movement of migratory birds. Highlights such as 29 species of warblers including Blue-winged, Golden-winged, Prothonotary, Hooded and Yellow-breasted Chat were viewed. Rarities included Little Blue Heron, Mississippi Kite, Willet, Ruff and Eurasian Collared-Dove.
2004
Cape May Warbler on 2008 Pelee Tour. Photo courtesy of Marilyn MacIvor.
Warbler watching was at its peak in 2004, with a total of 34 species seen over the two tours. Highlights included, Blue-winged, Hooded, Kentucky, Prothonotary, Worm-eating, and Prairie. These spring jewels, in their bright breeding plumage were a sight to behold! Other highlights included Summer Tanager, Henslow’s Sparrow, Le Conte’s Sparrow and Yellow-headed Blackbird.
2005
Glossy Ibis near Point Pelee National Park. Photo courtesy of Lorraine Elworthy.
2006
Ben Di Labio at the tip of Point Pelee National Park on his 9th birthday. May 1, 2006.
During the second week at Pelee, May 7 to 12, we were challenged by the variety of weather including rain, wind and cool temperatures but still managed to have a great time. Highlights included Sandhill Crane, Laughing Gull, White-eyed Vireo, 25 warbler species including Blue-winged, Cerulean, Prothonotary and Hooded. It’s always an exciting time!
2007
In May 2007 I again spent the first week birding with my son Ben and on the second week led a tour to Point Pelee National Park and Rondeau Provincial Park. Here’s the information I sent to Mrs. Le Geyt, who writes for the Ottawa Citizen, Bird Column. Ben and I had a great time!
“The
birding has been
great at Pelee. Yesterday, May 7th, Ben and I recorded 27
species of warblers including 1 Hooded Warbler, 1
Worm-eating
Warbler, 1 Kentucky Warbler and 1 Yellow-breasted Chat. Other
warblers of note were Cape May, Magnolia, Blackburnian,
Canada,
Chestnut-sided, and Mourning. It
was an
incredible day! There was even a light reverse migration off the
point which included 30+
Indigo Bunting, 40+
Baltimore Oriole, 100's of Red-winged Blackbird and
3 Red-headed
Woodpecker”.
On the tour May 13 to 18, the highlight for us was a Chuck-wills-widow near the tip. It was sitting low in the vegetation on a log. It brought back memories of my first “Chuck” at Pelee back in 1976! We managed 25 species of warblers including Golden-winged, Orange-crowned, and Hooded Warbler.
2008
A Red-headed Woodpecker on the 2008 Pelee Tour. Photo courtesy of Marilyn MacIvor.
Ben and I did our third Pelee tour in 2008 and it was great again! The best bird was a Mottled Duck, first recorded for CANADA. It was found a few days before we arrived but we managed to see it. The warbler watching was good but variable day to day and we saw 25 species including Blue-winged, Golden-winged, Cerulean, Prothonotary, Louisana Waterthrush and Kentucky Warbler.
A cooperative Kirtland's Warbler. Photo courtesy of Bhupendra Yadav.
As with every visit to Pelee, anything is possible and everything is different. This could not be more true than it was during the 2008 tour to Pelee. While driving down the 401 to Rondeau Provincial Park, my cell phone rings and I was alerted to a rare find at the tip of Pelee, a male Lark Bunting! This rare western visitor changed our plans and we headed straight to Pelee. We all had great views of the Lark Bunting. Just before boarding the tram back to vistor’s center, another alert was called in – a Black Vutlure at East Beach! We were fortunate once again, to see this rare southern vulture. During the week, we recorded 27 species of warbler, including both Blue and Golden-winged, Cerulean, Worm-eating, Kentucky, Hooded and Yellow-breasted Chat. The rarest species was a Kirtland’s Warbler at point blank range on the west beach at Pelee. After some searching we saw the Mottled Duck!
Point
Pelee National Park (Kirtland's Warbler) Tour
(May 12 to 18, 2003)
By
Laurie BrownPoint Pelee National Park is a tiny peninsula in Southern Ontario that projects into Lake Erie. The park is a slice of the rare Carolinian life zone. Living within the patchwork of natural habitats – marsh, savannah, forest and beach – is a complexity of life unlike anywhere else in Canada.
Little Blue Heron
Our tour with Di Labio Birding started on a damp May morning, departing from Bruce’s home in Carp at 6:00 a.m. Right from the get-go, as we traveled the 416 and 401, we are on the look out for anything to start our tour list with as “travel birds”.
We arrived in the Pelee area mid-afternoon and stopped at Rondeau Provincial Park.
"There's something in the woods!"
The next two days turned out sunny and warm. Both days were spent birding Point Pelee. Tuesday was especially good with a number of rare sighting. While the group was having a mid-morning coffee break in the parking lot, Bruce shouted “Look up!” as a Mississippi Kite soared over our heads. A Eurasian Collard Dove was also seen briefly. While enroute to Hillman’s Marsh Bruce received word of a Little Blue Heron back in Pelee. We rushed back and were rewarded with a beautiful view of the heron in full breeding plumage. Late in the afternoon we traveled to Wheatly to see a Ruff (orange morph) feeding quietly amongst some Lesser Yellow-legs, and a Willet on the shore of Lake Erie.
Bruce birding by ear! Photo by Lorraine Elworthy.
Friday morning was spent in Point Pelee where we walked the tram road. In the past this area has offered some surprises and this year was no different. We watched a Sedge Wren as it hopped around some tangles, then a Yellow-breasted Chat jumped out onto the road ahead of us. It stayed on the road for several minutes allowing us a perfect, unobstructed view.
The afternoon was our travel day to Grayling, Michigan and the much anticipated opportunity to see one of the world’s rarest birds …. the Kirtland’s Warbler. Situated in northern Michigan, the Grayling area has the unique combination of habitat that Kirtland’s Warblers require for successful breeding. However, its specific nesting requirements and Cowbird preditation have caused a drastic decline in the warblers’ population.
Saturday morning we met with a representative of the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. Judson showed us an interesting slide show on the history of the Kirtland’s Warbler. He then led us to the Jack Pine nesting area. Clutching our binoculars with great anticipation, we quietly walked into the Jack Pine stands, ears tuned for the warbler’s rich, loud, clear song. It didn’t take long before we heard one of the rarest bird songs in the world. After some time searching the tops of the Jack Pines we made our first visual contact with the Kirtland’s. This beautiful small, blue-gray bird with a bright yellow breast, enthusiastically throws its head back to sing, all the while twitching its tail.
And as they say … “the crowd roared”.
Kirtland's Warbler
After a brief stop in Grayling to buy souvenir Kirtland’s Warbler t-shirts (saw the bird, got the t-shirt), we headed back to Canada to bird the St. Clair Wildlife Area, and celebrate (again) our successful trip seeing the star of the tour.
All good things must come to an end, and after seven glorious days of birding it was time to head home. All of us on the tour will hold dear the fond memories of our camaraderie, good times, and especially, the birds.
Grand
Manan Island, New Brunswick
(August
25 to September 1, 2001)
By Geoff
Post
Grand Manan Island, New Brunswick
Our two (and a half) pelagic trips were the highlight of the trip. Not only did we get to see lots of pelagic birds but the whale display was wonderful. Greater, Sooty and Manx Shearwaters and 1000s of Wilson's Storm-Petrels; Northern Gannets and both Double Crested and Great Cormorants; 100s of Common Eiders and 2 Surf Scoters flying by; Red and Red-Necked Phalarope; Parasitic Jaeger, Black-Legged Kittiwake, Common, Arctic and Black Terns; Common Murre, Razorbill, Black Guillemot and Atlantic Puffin. And, of course, Northern Right whales (there are only a few more than 300 in the world) and Basking Sharks.
Among other birding highlights were the lone Great Egret wandering Castalia marsh, where we also saw many Merlin and a Peregrine falcon, and on another day, a couple of Nelson's Sharp-Tailed Sparrows. We were a little late to catch the main shorebird migration but we did see both Baird's and Pectoral Sandpipers and a couple of Short-Billed Dowitchers, Greater & Lesser Yellowlegs. On another day we saw large flocks of Semis in their amazing unified flight.
The forest birding yielded the usual suspects, but that's not what we were here for. From Southwest Head we saw both Minke and Humpback whales; and, from the boat, Harbour seals, large Gray seals and White-Sided dolphins.
Butterflies: Monarch, g.s.frittilary, American & Painted ladies, red admirals, cabbage white and orange sulphur, wood nymphs and, a new one for me, question mark.
The only identified odonates were: Enallagma ebrium and Sympetrum vicinium.
Also seen were Red bellied and green snakes, and a Vietnamese pot-bellied pig.
1996